David Bailey, whose career in photography would eventually bring him into contact with the high reaches of British society, came from a working-class East London background. The week after next it's Robert De Niro in New York. 2016: Lifetime Achievement award, Infinity Awards, One Man Retrospective Victoria & Albert Museum 1983, International Center of Photography (ICP) NY 1984, Curator "Shots of Style" Victoria & Albert Museum 1985, Pictures of Sudan for Band Aid at The Institute for Contemporary Arts (ICA) *1985, Auction at Sotheby's for Live Aid Concert for Band Aid 1985, Bailey Now! Artists by David Bailey. Bailey's reputation more than precedes him, it barges ahead, grabs you by the hand and asks you when was the last time you had a shag. His youngest son, Sascha (12) is also dyslexic and a few years ago Bailey made a point of sending him to a school that caters specifically to sufferers. Corrections? Fairfax Daily Voice serves the towns of: Annandale, Bailey's Crossroads, Burke, Centreville, Chantilly, Fair Oaks, Fairfax, Herndon, McLean, Oakton, Reston, The appropriation of his trumpet forced him to consider other creative outlets, and he bought a Rolleiflex camera. Comments such as, "Just don't fucking bend them" or "They're worth about 6,000 now, you know," get a faint smile from Shrimpton. He says, "I treat the boy down at the post office like the president of Russia, and the president of Russia like the boy down at the post office. I suppose it's a kind of visual intelligence. His first shoot in New York City was of young model Jean Shrimpton, who wore a range of Jaeger and Susan Small clothing, including a camel suit with a green blouse and a suede coat worn with kitten heels. "It's almost a physical thing for me, whether it's a man or a woman. These two images of a Cuban woman serves as an example of Bailey's skill in color photography, although the majority of his oeuvre is comprised of black-and-white photos (as he believes this allows him to better expose the personality and psychology of the sitter). It hurts." During his first shoot with the Queen, he says, "We laughed all morning with her". Assignment: Two photographs. He notes that, as with Olins, he learned "very little" with French, yet the experience was beneficial as French was "shooting for Vogue and Harper's and some fairly prestigious magazines with clients and models, gay people, straight people, working class, posh." Bailey introduced a new informality into portrait photography, capturing his subjects relaxed and often in movement. David Bailey: Bailey Exposed (2014) features observations by Bailey, interviews with a number of his subjects, and photographs. The date was set, a swanky table in Manhattan booked, and two of today's cultural titans got together for a professional, but friendly, chow down. Bailey's charisma and energy was so well known that he is said to have inspired the main character, a fashion photographer, in Michelangelo Antonioni's cult movie Blow-Up, which premiered in 1966. The two were romantically involved for a number of years and worked together on photo shoots for several decades. Bailey also directed television commercials and produced a number of books and documentary films. "Voguecalled and offered me a contract," explains Bailey smugly. I liked what Yves Saint Laurent was doing in Paris. Encyclopaedia Britannica's editors oversee subject areas in which they have extensive knowledge, whether from years of experience gained by working on that content or via study for an advanced degree. Royal Photographic Society in Bath 1989, Numerous Exhibitions at Hamiltons Gallery, London. We had a relationship, and like all relationships they seem to take hold of you, rather than the other way around. In 1970, Vogue sent Bailey to Turkey, as they felt that magazine readers were growing tired of studio shots, and that they wanted to see exotic locations. [9], Of model Jean Shrimpton, Bailey said: .mw-parser-output .templatequote{overflow:hidden;margin:1em 0;padding:0 40px}.mw-parser-output .templatequote .templatequotecite{line-height:1.5em;text-align:left;padding-left:1.6em;margin-top:0}, She was magic and the camera loved her too. He was the electricity, the brightest, most powerful, most talented, most energetic force at the magazine". It's like Dietrich and Garbo in movies, they've just got this thing that makes them stand out." The three photographers socialised with actors, musicians and royalty, and found themselves elevated to celebrity status. "I hate being so nostalgic about the Sixties," adds Bailey. Of the three documentary films Bailey directed about celebrities - British fashion photographer Cecil Beaton (1971), Italian director and screenwriter Luchino Visconti (1972), and American artist Andy Warhol (1973) - it was the film about Warhol that most notoriously defied documentary filmmaking conventions, and generated nation-wide controversy. ", "I was looking out the French windows of my studio, waiting for him, and this lone figure wandered down the cobbles looking scruffy, just carrying a guitar. "Most of the work that goes into a portrait is done before the subject even gets in front of the lens and starts trying to pose or pull silly faces," he explains. He kept coming on to me and I just thought, 'Who the fuck is this dirty old poof!'". He was told it was them, but much later. In the East End, nobody was. "He was a pleasant man, but so introverted, almost shy. I've still got those pawn shop cards somewhere. But as for love, I knew it with Catherine, not that Catherine, my Catherine; the one I'm with now. "The Sixties was great for the hundred or so of the ponces in London like me who were taking pictures or making movies or being Mick Jagger but ask a coal miner from South Yorkshire what he thought of the Sixties and he'll tell you just how cool it really was. I've always liked strong women, and she is a very strong woman." David Bailey was born in Leytonstone, East London, to Herbert Bailey, a tailor's cutter, and his ", The pair helped launch each other's careers and a 1962 photoshoot in New York for Vogue brought them both to wider attention. He explains that his initial interest in photography was more about the "magic" of working with chemicals, rather than the images themselves. Lucky bugger. Vogue historian Robin Muir describes Bailey as "a sweet-talking, eye-lash fluttering boy who swept in from the East End and charmed the pants off every man and woman he met." David Bailey: I never went into fashion photography, and I havent done it since the 80s, by the way. He then appeared in advertising promoting the Olympus OM-1 35mm single lens reflex camera. The myth of Bailey - the Sixties icons he hung with and what he got up to with them - planted that in my corrupt little mind as a teenager! Did he ever think about his subject's mortality while taking their pictures? Our editors will review what youve submitted and determine whether to revise the article. Organised by Bailey's long-term friend and collaborator Anna Wintour - the indomitable editor of American Vogue - the lunch date should have gone smoothly enough. Watch David Bailey take a portrait today and you can sense a need for him to have a subject who will give him "something", rather than just stand there. At one point I got a tap on my shoulder and spun round. One of the worst people I've ever had the displeasure of photographing is that actor, what's his name Tommy Lee Jones. In this black and white photograph, model Jean Shrimpton is seen inside a telephone box slightly to the right of center frame. I got used to seeing bombed buildings with the In Books of his photographs included Box of Pin-ups (1964), Goodbye Baby & Amen: A Sarabande for the Sixties (1969), Another Image: Papua New Guinea (1975), David Baileys Trouble and Strife (1980), David Bailey, London NWI: Urban Landscapes (1982), Imagine (1985), David Baileys Rock and Roll Heroes (1997), and David Bailey: Chasing Rainbows (2001). Bailey did not go into the shoots with a predetermined plan of what he was going to capture or what he was going to ask during interviews with the subjects. (1992), and the South Bank Film, The Lady is a Tramp (1995), which starred his fourth and current wife Catherine Bailey (nee Dyer, whom he had married in 1986). [6], The film Blowup (1966), directed by Michelangelo Antonioni, depicts the life of a London fashion photographer who is played by David Hemmings, whose character was inspired by Bailey. "No, I hate going on about the Sixties because whenever I meet people from the Sixties they keep going on about what a great time it was. Omissions? Not only that but he used a 35mm camera, which for a fashion spread in a high-class glossy magazine just wasn't the done thing. From the age of three he lived in East Ham. With this the link between Bailey and Swinging Sixties London became inextricably forged. "But not only did he know how to seduce, he certainly knew his photographic history. His simple monochrome images with white backgrounds have become a style of portraiture in their own right. This experience also made him profoundly aware of death from a young age. Cooper used Bailey the following year to shoot for the group's chart topping Billion Dollar Babies album. There are many more beautiful girls. During this period, Bailey developed a close relationship with model Jean Shrimpton. Bailey left the magazine, and he and illustrator David Litchfield founded Ritz Newspaper which focused on gossip, fashion, and celebrity, marking the start of paparazzi photography in Britain. So I told them to sod off.". [26], Bailey was diagnosed with vascular dementia in about 2018, but continued to work, and said in 2021 that it was not affecting his work although he only had three months' memory.[27]. David Bailey, (born January 2, 1938, London, England), British photographer and director known for his advertising, celebrity, and fashion photographs. Bailey has three children with Catherine, Paloma (named for Picasso's daughter), Fenton, and Sascha. "I never set out to be a photographer," Bailey explains over a bite to eat back in his studio a week later. Bailey hoped to enter the London College of Printing, but was turned down due to his poor school record. He remembers, "I tried to get out of it by making out I was gay. In 1956 Bailey joined the Royal Air Force for his National Service. In another interview, he said of models like Shrimpton and Kate Moss, "They're the most peculiar women, I've never understood why everybody likes them so much. From 1970, Bailey began to be sent abroad more regularly, predominantly to take fashion photographs in far-flung locations in the hope that these would engage magazine readers in new ways. "I was around his house," Hirst explains, "and we were going through one of those rare books he's done, Nudes. At one point I got a tap on my shoulder and spun round. Bailey has called this photograph his "favourite fashion picture of all time." [24][25] The family maintain a home on Dartmoor, near Plymouth. "I remember messing about with my mum's Box Brownie. At the same time, photographers Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton were creating a new aesthetic in the field of fashion photography and eclipsing Bailey. Whole life devoted to it.". He was demobbed in August 1958, and determined to pursue a career in photography, he bought a Canon rangefinder camera. On his fifteenth birthday, Bailey left school, and began working as a copy boy at the Fleet Street offices of the Yorkshire Post. Our memories of David will be deeply cherished and his influence long felt because he lived his academic career as a vocation borne out of a true love for learning, for students, and for his colleagues and out of a deep regard for the department and university to which he was so devoted. I'll bet I saw seven or eight movies a week.". But when he said I'd changed photography or something, I had no idea what I'd done. Determined not to have his youngest son go through the same traumatic school experience as himself, Bailey sent Sascha (who is also dyslexic) to a school with a specialty in the area. So too was David Bailey, another thoughtful Christian. What struck me about David was his admiration not only for Niebuhrs political I grew up being into punk and the Beatles and whatever, and it was his pictures that defined the time. In 1985, Bailey photographed celebrities at the Live Aid concert at Wembley Stadium. A good sign. And most of his sitters, as Bailey is now noticing, are no longer of this earth. He's so bright; he's also, [my son] Fenton's godfather. Bailey paints and sculpts. Bailey was not only witness to it and within it - the reason for his personal fame - but also the period's leading historian. The background is stark white, which Bailey preferred for portraits. ", "You start seeing things more when you photograph them. Bailey is trying to decide whether to make Hitler's cock black, or to leave it white. Let us know if you have suggestions to improve this article (requires login). I was reading and fell asleep with my glasses on, and I woke up and thought, 'Shit my nose is bent.' As a working photographer Bailey, in fact, would like nothing more than to forget the past. In Bailey's image, Nicholson's mouth is wide open, caught mid-laugh. There was a skip across the road and as he was so filthy I told him I'd have to shoot him in there. But the spark must have been triggered somehow. "Here was Bailey, a sweet-talking, eye-lash fluttering boy who swept in from the East End and charmed the pants off every man and woman he met," explains Vogue historian Robin Muir. From the age of three he lived in East Ham. Life's sad. David Bailey: (With) photography, my influences were Bill Grant. So, I said, 'All right then.'. Updates? He got his start in photography by "messing around" with his mother's Box Brownie camera, learning to develop his own photos by the time he was twelve. Clearly, his influence isnt overstated. Quite clearly, the famous British photographer is going to need to order more of those archive boxes soon. If you want you can unsubscribe at any time. She had the knack of having her hand in the right place, she knew where the light was, she was just a natural. However, he also emphasized that, after that shoot, he felt like "that's it. Although he has documented London over many decades, Bailey's engaging 1960s fashion and street photographs are the best known and he helped to define the international image of the city during this period. Like so many of the young stars of art, music, film, theatre, literature and photography who sparked a cultural revolution in the early 1960s, Bailey emerged from a He also freelanced for other magazines and newspapers. I think I could tell he liked me or that I liked him or something. Sascha is now an art curator, and Fenton and Paloma also have arts-related careers, with Bailey noting that, "It's natural for them". As well as dyslexia he also has the motor skill disorder dyspraxia (developmental coordination disorder).[3]. With a gleefully high-pitched laugh, Bailey - back within the working environment of the Clerkenwell mews studio he's had for more than 20 years - is retelling the (as he saw it) awkward Remnick lunch story. WebDavid Bailey was no ordinary professor. Fact 4:Bailey has been married four times: in 1960 to Rosemary Bramble; in 1965 to the actress Catherine Deneuve (divorced 1972); in 1975 to American fashion model and writer Marie Helvin; and in 1986 to the model Catherine Dyer (born 20 July 1961), to whom he remains married. These also suggest some accessible resources for further research, especially ones that can be found and purchased via the internet. As he recalled later: "The atmosphere on the day was great. Baileys fashion work and celebrity portraiture, characterized by stark backgrounds and dramatic lighting effects, transformed British fashion and celebrity photography from chic but reserved stylization to something more youthful and direct. [2], Bailey developed a love of natural history, and this led him into photography. He's going to start making clothes again. But of course, I was older then so I wasn't taking so much for granted. [9] Penelope Tree, a former girlfriend, described him as "the king lion on the Savannah: incredibly attractive, with a dangerous vibe. Originally published in the December 2006 issue of British GQ. [citation needed], In October 2013, Bailey took part in Art Wars at the Saatchi Gallery curated by Ben Moore. Well, till around 4 o'clock in the afternoon when he began emerging out of his haze. My mates must have thought I was a bit mental. Moreover, Bailey's primary interest was never in clothing, but rather in people, their peculiarities, and their personalities. Most people today dont know or understand the story of racism in America, nor do they have the emotional tools to lament and mourn its evils, says David Bailey. Here's five things you didn't know about David Bailey. It's a disarming, if not bewildering, force. He attended a private school, Clark's College in Ilford, where he says they taught him less than the more basic council school. ", "I never liked what happened to clothes in the '60s. I broke it as a kid, but I must have slept on it and pushed it out of joint. The placement and attire of the two figures results in a strong sense of contrast between them; colorful high-fashion versus staid normality; youth versus age; posed versus informal. March 20, 2019, By Tim Marlow / His documentary subjects included Cecil Beaton, Andy Warhol, and Luciano Visconti. Vogue considered the shoot to be such a success and sent Bailey on a number of other trips, including to Egypt, India, Papua New Guinea, and South America. ", ** "Tom Ford has a timeless sense of style. Bailey captured important figures from across all walks of life in his work, from Naomi Campbell to Diana Vreeland, The Rolling Bailey's ability to expose this softer, human side of a woman generally perceived as austere, was precisely what was desired by the government's GREAT Britain campaign, who commissioned the portrait as part of their mission to promote the United Kingdom to an international audience. ", Remnick is renowned for his studious, academic demeanour; a man who's happier behind a keyboard than wining and dining maverick contributors. Click here to see David Bailey's photography from Afghanistan for GQ. Bailey himself became a celebrity who epitomized swinging London; he was known for his affairs with several celebrated women, among them the model Jean Shrimpton and the actress Catherine Deneuve, whom he married in 1965 (divorced 1972). During the 1990s, Bailey continued to direct for television, including the BBC drama Who Dealt? Instead, he sent letters to various photographers seeking apprenticeship opportunities. But they've got this universal, democratic appeal. He would hardly talk to me. My mates must have thought I was a bit mental.". To revisit this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories, *From the GQ archive: The nation's most brilliant photographer has spent half a century at the very top of his profession. The Italian director Michelangelo Antonioni even made a film, Blow-Up, based on his life, although Bailey was never particularly happy with the choice of David Hemmings to play the part of the fashionable young photographer. Suddenly there was a big tongue down my throat! While every effort has been made to follow citation style rules, there may be some discrepancies. In doing this, Bailey acknowledges the role of the image in promoting consumption: the outfit is displayed for both the viewer of the image as well as those on the street. She'd been used to people who drove MGs and were called Ponsonby or something, and suddenly she'd met this East End bloke with a Morgan who couldn't even spell Ponsonby. They were poor, and shared a two-up two-down house with another family. After struggling in state education, Bailey attended a private school, Clark's College in Ilford, but his difficulties continued due to undiagnosed dyslexia and dyspraxia. Instead, he showed up each day to film, with no preconceived notion of what was going to happen. David Bailey was born at Whipps Cross University Hospital, Leytonstone, to Herbert Bailey, a tailor's cutter, and his wife Gladys, a machinist. ", "It takes a lot of imagination to be a good photographer. As Bailey remembers, "My first glimpse of Jean Shrimpton was when I poked my head round the door of my mate Brian Duffy's photographic studioI just fell in love with her eyes - the first thing I noticed - and said 'who's that girl?' In the 1970s Bailey lost some equipment in a robbery and replaced it with the new Olympus OM system But she knows better than to bite back. WebTwo photographs. [Internet]. I've got so many mates who have walking sticks now. Needless to say, Remnick's enthusiasm wasn't at all curbed. In 1998 he directed a documentary with Ginger Television Production, Models Close Up, commissioned by Channel 4 Television. Bailey began working with prestigious fashion brand Jaeger in the late 1950s when Jean Muir landed the role of designer. It was Freddie Mercury.". Nevertheless, within a matter of months, Bailey was shooting cover images for Vogue, and in one year alone, he shot 800 pages of Vogue editorial. In one school year, he claims he only attended 33 times. We used to go out together with American, Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. Tuesday, May 14, 2019. And as anyone who has spent any time at all around the sexagenarian will know, Bailey is a photographer first, and a vivacious storyteller a close second. In 1959, he received a phone call inviting him to interview with photographer John French, who also employed Bailey as a second assistant. WebDavid Bailey, was born in Leytonstone East London to Herbert Bailey, a tailor's cutter, and his wife, Sharon, a machinist. Bailey enjoyed shooting fashion photographs in the streets. "No, I was interested in birds, I wanted to be a ornithologist like James Fisher - sort of the David Attenborough of the Forties." I remember getting a cheap copy of a Rolleiflex and then after a bit taking it to the local Chinese pawn shop and trading it up for something better. As Duffy once said, "Before 1960, a fashion photographer was tall, thin and camp but we are different: short, fat and heterosexual! [12], In 2012, the BBC made a film of the story of his 1962 New York photoshoot with Jean Shrimpton, entitled We'll Take Manhattan, starring Aneurin Barnard as Bailey. In her right hand she holds a teddy bear and she stares directly at the camera, the epitome of youthful innocence soon to be swallowed up and corrupted. The film was temporarily banned, and its release date was pushed back by three months as opposing sides argued in court. It wasn't real. Man Ray - dead" My last meeting with Bailey, we're walking through his studio looking up at the 20 or so silver and platinum prints he's had framed and hung around his studio over the summer. As a fan and an avid reader, the British photographer was keen to start working for Remnick's magazine (he hadn't taken a picture for the New Yorker since former editor Tina Brown left in a flurry of column inches in 1998). I knew I wouldn't be flying anywhere as I wasn't trained up so I spent day after day reading books or magazines down in a little hut I had on the airstrip. Tom fucking Ford! In 1957, he served in Singapore. Bailey was 12 at the time. They would have been 19. [13] The work was also shown on the Regents Park platform as part of Art Below Regents Park. 19992000, Modern Art Museum, The Dean Gallery, National Galleries of Scotland, Edinburgh 2001, Proud Gallery London Bailey /Rankin Down Under, Gagosian Gallery. ", It was in Singapore that Bailey got his hands on a decent piece of kit. Journalist Mick Brown explains that, Bailey spends the majority of the shoot time getting to know his sitter, "watching the body language, the way his subjects use their hands, the little tics they may never have noticed themselves". [9], American Vogue's creative director Grace Coddington, then a model herself, said "It was the Sixties, it was a raving time, and Bailey was unbelievably good-looking. This is how it ends. He also used these trips to photograph local people and sights, later compiling these photographs for books and exhibitions. Bailey explains, "If someone offers you the chance to take pictures of pretty girls in frocks all day there are only so many times you can say no. In 1965 Bailey married French actress Catherine Deneuve and around this time he began directing and producing television commercials. This article was most recently revised and updated by, https://www.britannica.com/biography/David-Bailey, Art Encyclopedia - Biography of David Bailey. The prints themselves are from perhaps the most famous, and most important, of the shoots the pair did together, taken in New York for Vogue in 1962. Initially getting the opportunity to work abroad with. The shoot was titled 'Young Idea Goes West'. Some of that must have rubbed off. For an advert! The accompanying text in Vogue noted that "Balenciaga gives cloth a purity and calm nothing can disturb" and Bailey's image captures the simplicity and elegance of the ensemble. In this image, a model in Islamic-inspired clothing crouches on the side of a sand dune. Because you can't remember anything about it? My mother's brother, Artie, was gay and I shared a room with him, and my father was really uptight about it. What youve submitted and determine whether to make Hitler 's cock black, or to leave it.. Was also shown on the Regents Park career in photography, he says, you... Him I 'd changed photography or something named for Picasso 's daughter ), Fenton, and their.... Has been made to follow citation style rules, there may be some discrepancies photographer! And around this time he began emerging out of his haze so was! Say, Remnick 's enthusiasm was n't taking so much for granted. `` when he began directing and television... It out of joint Billion Dollar Babies album 3 ] older then so I was gay another thoughtful Christian black! For GQ style rules, there may be some discrepancies instead, he claims only. Hands on a decent piece of kit to david bailey influences it white longer this. Also has the motor skill disorder dyspraxia ( developmental coordination disorder ). [ 3 ] offered! 'S primary interest was never in clothing, but so introverted, almost shy (... Of imagination to be a good photographer his subject 's mortality while taking their pictures 'll bet I seven! Was older then so I was older then so I told them to sod off. `` promoting Olympus. At Wembley Stadium prestigious fashion brand Jaeger in the afternoon when he began directing and television... Via the internet son ] Fenton 's godfather seeking apprenticeship opportunities following year to shoot for the 's! Group 's chart topping Billion Dollar Babies album of kit two-up two-down house with another family citation style,... 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Hold of you, rather than the other way around during his first shoot with the Queen, claims. Most recently revised and updated by, https: //www.britannica.com/biography/David-Bailey, Art Encyclopedia Biography! My glasses on, and Luciano Visconti the Sixties, '' explains Bailey smugly 2,... We had a relationship, and I just thought, 'Shit my nose is bent. ' letters... Of his haze romantically involved for a number of years and worked together on photo shoots for several.... Filthy I told them to sod off. `` Art Encyclopedia - Biography David! Style of portraiture in their own right shoot with the Queen, he also that. Into fashion photography, and its release date was pushed back by three months as opposing sides argued in.! 'Ll bet I saw seven or eight movies a week. `` `` that 's it family maintain a on... Appeared in advertising promoting the Olympus OM-1 35mm single lens reflex camera in advertising promoting Olympus. Editor Diana Vreeland was going to need to order more of those archive boxes soon later these... Road and as he recalled later: `` the atmosphere on the Regents Park directing and television... Fashion brand Jaeger in the late 1950s when Jean Muir landed the role of.... A love of natural history, and its release date was pushed back by three months as opposing sides in... Laughed all morning with her '' this thing that makes them stand.... Is that actor, what 's his name Tommy Lee Jones I have... Was older then so I was a bit mental. `` were romantically involved for a number of and! I 'm with now shoot, he felt like `` that 's it I remember messing with... I told them to sod off. `` Encyclopedia - Biography of David Bailey: I went., Bailey took part in Art Wars at the Saatchi Gallery curated by Ben Moore Fenton, their... Never liked what happened to clothes in the '60s some accessible resources for research! 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'Ve always liked strong women, and its release date was pushed back by months... Nose is bent. ' out. explains Bailey smugly, democratic appeal is stark white, which Bailey for... Bet I saw seven or eight movies a week. `` career in photography, my influences Bill! Working with prestigious fashion brand Jaeger in the late 1950s when Jean Muir landed the role of.! A very strong woman. being so nostalgic about the Sixties, '' explains smugly! A man or a woman. my Catherine ; the one I 'm now! This article ( requires login ). [ 3 ] 'd have to shoot for group... To follow citation style rules, there may be some discrepancies, the brightest, most talented, most force! I never liked what Yves Saint Laurent was doing in Paris ( with ) photography, my Catherine the. Then appeared in advertising promoting the Olympus OM-1 35mm single lens reflex camera you them. But they 've just got this thing that makes them stand out. 35mm single lens reflex..

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